Reviews

Sphaerics Chardonnay if and only if

Another stab at this gem yields similar results as when I last sampled it back in July, the 2024 “if and only if” is a banger of a wine. Service was a bit cold at first, making for a more muted…

Sphaerics Chardonnay overline

A lot of lemon to go around with this one, flanked by salt rock, yellow pear, and yuzu elements, the overline flaunts a pleasant array of citrus and stone fruit flavors that also offer a sense of…

Sphaerics Chardonnay on days and nights

The oak elements are more prominent on the front end here, with the attack led by juicy lemon curd and riper yellow pear flavors, lovingly kissed with oak and subtle tropical notes. There is…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Nogers

I continue to appreciate the freshness of the overall delivery combined with the diligently placed oxidative and honey notes here with this vintage of Nogers. Lemon, pear, and wet granite make for a…

Adrien Renoir Champagne Grand Cru Les Montants

To try and crush this bottle with a quick pop and guzzle would certainly do it a disservice. The initial blast of foamy chalk, lemon juice, lime pith, and herbs is a speedway of hyper strung-up…

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Hommage à Louis

This is coming along swimmingly, with salty yellow and green citrus notes complimenting white travertine, lemon curd and juice, tangerine oil, yuzu, and crème fraiche. The lactic aspects of the oak…

Domaine des Malandes Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

Having evolved notably well since my last bottle two years ago, the 2022 Malandes Les Clos is a pretty version that is slowly blossoming into a worthy specimen. Lemon upon lemon, with hints of…

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir

Lemon juice, lemon confit, lemon zest, lemon lemon lemon… with lime zest and pith, yellow pear flesh and skin, and quince, the 2019 Vaudesir has formed into a balanced and focused animal, and one…

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles

Lime, lemon, yuzu, quince, limestone, and yellow pear flesh; hints of honey and travertine. This is in a pretty prime spot right now. There is noteworthy equilibrium, with solid acidity and speed,…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant Extra Brut

This takes a few minutes to wake up and start performing (it was also a bit too cold on initial serving), but once it gets into gear, the apple and pear notes flow effortlessly, with Levant’s…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Nogers

This particular sample is more pear and ripe yellow/red apple-driven than previous bottles. Dollops of honey and cardamom show off the oxidative elements with balance and depth, offering some juicy…

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles

Iodine, lime and lemon zest, green mango, lemon juice, clementine, sea spray, and yellow pear notes make for an incisive delivery, marked by a slow flowing of fruit and saline elements. This is much…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Nogers

In keeping with previous vintages of Nogers, the 2020 is a worthy follow-up to the alluring 2019. Similarly stacked with lemon, pear flesh, melon rind, yuzu, limestone, and cardamom flavors, this…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Premier Cru Brut Zéro Les Monts Ferrés

Another solid bottle from 2018, but a later disgorgement here (June 2024 vs February 2024 of previous bottles). Yellow apple, yuzu, olive oil, iron, and a hint of pineapple rind. The strong mineral…

Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Blanc de Blancs Heurtebise

Another crack at this from the same lot shows that a year or two more on its side might do it well. It is slightly angular (especially when side-by-side with a much silkier 2012 Taittinger Comtes).…

Michel Fallon Champagne Brigitte Fallon Avysia Avize

Best bottle of this so far, with a sophistication that has developed since last year. The 2014 is clean and fresh, and also carries a perfectly balanced sense of volume and sapidity that keeps it…