Reviews

Domaine Tortochot Chambertin

Red cherry water, cinnamon stick, strawberry, rose petal, and whispers of tobacco circling the flavor wagon, the 2012 Tortochot Chambertin is a lighter-entry wine holding its substance on an even…

Olivier Bernstein Clos de la Roche

At first, this was a monolithic showing, especially next to some of the more ethereal and delicate wines also at the table. With air, the flavors deepened, but still remained somewhat primary and a…

Marcassin Pinot Noir Marcassin Vineyard

As a standalone, this wine was initially a tad confusing to me. likely more due to my general stupidity (as usual) than the wine being some sort of enigma. Here's why - The texture was exceptionally…

Domaine Taupenot-Merme Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru La Riotte

Long story short, leave these alone for another 5+ years (probably more like 10+). Sealed with DIAM 30, so you have time. Even after a double decant for a few hours and a full decant for a few hours…

Domaine Michel Mallard & Fils Corton-Les Renardes

My notes from April 2020 still generally apply. Ripe black cherry, raspberry, spice, smoke, and forest floor notes make for a beautifully darker and deeper pitched profile. Exquisite balance. There…

Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière

Both ripe and tight, with an uber-linear execution that needed every bit of O2 that the decanter it was in could offer. Quality is certainly high, but this is an animal that will require some…

Herman Story Pinot Noir Smash City

If Dr. Pepper had an Adderall-addicted brother with a propensity for Lewis Black whiskey fits and kidnapping caracal kittens, it would be the 2020 Herman Story Pinot Noir Smash City...

Alain Hudelot-Noëllat Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Murgers

Continue to hold this one. Red cherry flavors dominate, with hints of citrus rind and spice. Primary, pure, fresh, and tight, never fully giving up the goods. It isn't so locked-up that there's no…

Faiveley Chambertin-Clos de Bèze

A pop of the cork with just a few minutes of swirling in the glass and this was off to the races. After thirty or so minutes, it's was on fire. Black cherry and briar notes dominate, with additional…

Henri Boillot Latricières-Chambertin

On the first pull of the cork, nuthin. No nose; no palate; no finish; no nuthin. Hints of red cherry water and, you guessed it, nuthin. Swirling, swirling, swirling. Zero pulse. "CLEAR!!!"…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Grand Cru Jolivettes

A more needly showing than the previous bottle just a few months ago, with any complexity or breadth held at bay by the sharp and edgy stone/chalk and twiggy? elements firing off behind the foxhole…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Villers-Allerand Les Loges

This became the house Champagne for the night. A solid performer and a serious ground pounder for those who are into just gettin' yer party on. Just don't serve it next to a 2013 Cristal. That can be…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Franc de Pied Les Coupés

A Champagne that will need a few years to fill out, the 2015 Les Coupes is still in a bit of its primary mode, especially when compared to the 2012. This version offers an affable entry and notably…

Ultramarine Blanc de Noirs (Late Disgorged) Charles Heintz Vineyard

Pours a translucent salmon color, with an orange rind hue that shimmers through the effervescence. On the palate, the bubbles are slightly aggressive at first, giving way to a succulently sweet front…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Grand Cru Jolivettes

After digging into my recent arrivals of Maillart Champagne, I decided to try the 2017 Jolivettes, 2017 Mont Martin, and 2014 Chaillots Gillis. Punchline: Anyone who is holding these bottles should…

Drew Family Cellars Pinot Noir Morning Dew Ranch Vineyard

Lean and a bit mean, with the stem inclusion piercing the cranberry and pomegranate-water core. A prickly showing, and one that is slightly more complex than the Fog Eater, but much more…

Drew Family Cellars Pinot Noir Fog Eater

Cranberry water, twigs, green peppercorns, and faint citrus rind. Fairly diluted and also a bit bitter. Lacks depth and complexity. Wait for a few years if you are holding bottles in hopes it fattens…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Franc de Pied Les Coupés

At The Shota SF. A perfect pairing for the 15+ courses of sashimi, nigiri, and other modern creative/hybrid omakase menu dishes. The cut and acidity are allowed to show in tandem with the food due to…

Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge

Day 1 was a solid showing once it crawled out of its shell after a few hours of air. The nose was pretty skunky initially and the fruit slightly reserved, but the budding complexity was notable. Cork…

Vouette et Sorbée Champagne Fidèle

Grilled lemon, olive oil, black cherry water, and hazelnuts dominate the flavor profile here, with just the slightest oxidative note to add textural breadth. A fairly serious showing. Best served in…

P. Dubreuil-Fontaine Père & Fils Corton-Clos du Roi

A similar showing to last year's bottle, with an initially cagey but alluring display of red cranberry, red currant, and dusty spice notes slowly skulking out of the back alley and cautiously…

Jérôme Chezeaux Clos Vougeot

With not too much coaxing, this Clos Vougeot came to life with characteristic flavors of red berry, red currant, forest floor, mushroom, and an orange rind note that did everything to lift up the…

Henri Boillot Clos Vougeot

The more recent vintages of Henri Boillot pinots (currently crafted by Boillot Jr.) really have a strikingly suave as well as a beautifully racy comportment, with a saturating texture and viscosity…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Franc de Pied Les Coupés

This particular bottle took some time to open up. After an hour or two of slow O2 and then allowing it to open up in the glass without getting too warm, the color and palate became deeper and…

Domaine Henri Boillot Volnay 1er Cru Les Chevrets

This took about an hour before it opened up and needed to be at a very cool cellar temperature to be enjoyed optimally. At first, it was served at more room temperature (65+ degrees) and the fruit…