Reviews

Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Rosé d'assemblage Extra Brut

Prevalent black cherry and muddled strawberry fruit flavors dominate the attack, kept in proper line with higher riding chalk and white melon rind elements preventing this from becoming too heavy.…

Savart Champagne Premier Cru Ecueil, Trepail Blanc de Blancs

Notable precision and focus, with yellow and white fruit elements wrapped in a thin layer of chalky minerality, the Trepail is a decent offering with captivating verve and snap. Not the most complex…

Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Les Barres

A strong showing, and one that outshines the 2020 Orizeaux on complexity and weight, Les Barres is a beautiful balance of energy and volume. Ginger, Mirabelle plum, brown, red, and yellow pear,…

Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Rosé de Saignée

Black. Cherry. Soda. Pop.

Philipponnat Champagne Extra Brut Clos des Goisses

As with the bottle back in July, this is a riper showing than more energized samples a couple years ago. Red apple flesh, chewy grilled lemon, yellow apple skin and flesh, walnut, limestone, ginger,…

Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Le Mont Benoit

A beautiful showing, with balanced weight and volume pushing out flavors of yellow apple, grilled lemon, apricot, roasted walnuts, granite, golden raisin, cherry water, ginger, white pepper, and…

Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast

In a good spot right now, with focus on equilibrium and lovely fruit expansion. Lemon, quince, yellow pear. Less of the overt Hefeweizen froth and yeast this go-around. The slightest hint of the…

Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Les Beaux Regards

In a great spot right now, straddling freshness with some mature and oxidized notes. Some nice ginger spice in the foreground, pushing grilled lemon, quince, cardamom, and yellow pear flesh flavors…

David Leclapart Champagne Premier Cru Cuvée L'Aphrodisiaque

Honey, ginger, brioche crust, caramel, torched orange rind, poached pear, olive oil, chamomile, and grilled lemon notes make for a seriously no-joking kind of experience. The delivery is completely…

Weingut Prinz Hallgartener Jungfer Riesling Großes Gewächs

A ton of petrol here. Overpowering. Hold.

Platt Vineyard Chardonnay Estate Reserve

As before, a lot of lemon to go around, with crème fraiche, lemon curd, pineapple, and milky vanilla making for a more succulent entry of ripe fruit on the front end. The creamy texture shows fuller…

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir

A medium performance. Good lemon core, but without some desired acidic tension. This was bested by a more lively and honed 2019 Droin Vaulorent 1er. Drink the 2018 Vaudesir sooner than later. Sure,…

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent

This bottle was reminiscent of the first bottle I had a few years ago; full of vibrancy and acidic tension. A lively and speedy delivery gives way to notes of yellow and green citrus, travertine,…

Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Les Beaux Regards

There is admirable energy and zing here, complimented by richer pear and lemon flavors. The delivery is slightly angular on the finish at first pop, softening with time in the glass. Still working on…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Les Coullemets Le Mesnil-sur-Oger

Shows youthfully linear and bracketed at first pass, but then the wonderful core fruit flavors of yellow pear, Squirt, lemon, lime pith, honeydew, and yellow apple flesh shine through. Persistent…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Cramant

This took three-to-four days being open to resolve some its weirdness, with a super bitter mineral element trampling the fruit almost completely on the first day. Day two was a little better, but…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize

Striking laser beams of wet travertine/limestone and acidity jet right through the grilled lemon, brioche crust, yellow pear and apple skin, and olive oil flavors. Powerful and exacting. Finishes…

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

A strong iodine note dominates the finish with this bottle, washing over the limestone, lemon, and salty yuzu flavors on the remainder of the attack. Less fruit expansion with this particular sample.…

Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Les Beaux Regards

Strong red apple, grilled lemon, and olive oil flavors dominate, with limestone, cardamom, ginger, and yellow pear skin notes adding complexity and interest. Medium intensity and girth here, but a…

Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières

One of the best Henri Boillot bottles I've had in a while, out-classing Mouchere, Corton Charlie (which are more angular and blocky when young), and even Batard (though Batard has elevated focus,…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant Extra Brut

Pours a golden color, with a nose that is both saline and ripe yellow fruit. On the palate, this is a push-pull of salty sea spray, granite and mineral elements, olive oil on brioche crust, and…

Jerome Blin Champagne Les Caillasses Brut Millésime

Jerome Blin's Champagne are frequently coated in this mousy/wooly type texture that is sometimes charming (more so with his Pinot Meunier wines) but more often than not, a bit off-putting. Such is…

David Leclapart Champagne Premier Cru L'Apôtre Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

Found a few more of these randomly at an auction (1st of 3). I was a little concerned because the fill level on this bottle was slightly lower than the other two in the batch. Crisis averted, as the…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Premier Cru Le Clos des Trois Clochers Brut Zero

Pineapple rind, grilled lemon, yellow pear skin, and wood. Shows more advanced than I would expect given the experiences I've had with more recent vintages of this wine (which have been excellent).…

Huré Frères Chardonnay Champagne 4 éléments

Pouring a magnificent neon yellow color, the 4 Elements Chardonnay immediately pops into action with a gravitating luminosity. Strong yuzu and clementine dominate, with Squirt, lemon and lime zest,…