Reviews

Egly-Ouriet Champagne Premier Cru Les Vignes de Vrigny

At Restaurant Alpine Gourmet Prato Borni, Zermatt, Switzerland.

Doyard Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Clos de l'Abbaye

Of the 2015, I previously wrote, "Such a young pup, and a bit severe at first." This is equally true of this 2016 version, with a linear and somewhat angular delivery on the initial pop of the cork.…

Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut (2015) Le Mont Benoit

Probably the best it has performed over the last couple of years, with a really nice balance of richness and tension. It's got a small nip on the tail that makes for a slightly edgy finish, but is…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Chaillots Gillis

In a great spot right now. Fresh and succulent. This can age and develop tertiary flavors of course, but why wait?!

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Villers-Allerand Les Loges

This became the house Champagne for the night. A solid performer and a serious ground pounder for those who are into just gettin' yer party on. Just don't serve it next to a 2013 Cristal. That can be…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Franc de Pied Les Coupés

A Champagne that will need a few years to fill out, the 2015 Les Coupes is still in a bit of its primary mode, especially when compared to the 2012. This version offers an affable entry and notably…

Doyard Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Clos de l'Abbaye

There is an herbal tinge lifting this Champagne into the next tier of complexity that I find extremely appealing. Freshly washed oregano and tarragon leaf aromas and flavors add nuance and…

Doyard Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Clos de l'Abbaye

A decisive and formidable hit of fresh herbs (tarragon, Italian parsley, mint) unloads from the front end push on the initial pop of the cork, with a clay/mineral-driven streak slicing directly…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Chaillots Gillis

After digging into my recent arrivals of Maillart Champagne, I decided to try the 2017 Jolivettes, 2017 Mont Martin, and 2014 Chaillots Gillis. Punchline: Anyone who is holding these bottles should…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Mont Martin

After digging into my recent arrivals of Maillart Champagne, I decided to try the 2017 Jolivettes, 2017 Mont Martin, and 2014 Chaillots Gillis. Punchline: Anyone who is holding these bottles should…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Franc de Pied Les Coupés

At The Shota SF. A perfect pairing for the 15+ courses of sashimi, nigiri, and other modern creative/hybrid omakase menu dishes. The cut and acidity are allowed to show in tandem with the food due to…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Premier Cru Terre de Vertus

Another go with this Champagne since Spring and this bottle does not disappoint. The first pour is initially quite steely and a bit bitter, spitting out more white fruit and higher toned chalk…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Franc de Pied Les Coupés

This particular bottle took some time to open up. After an hour or two of slow O2 and then allowing it to open up in the glass without getting too warm, the color and palate became deeper and…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Franc de Pied Les Coupés

Coming into a prime drinking window now. In fact, I'll likely be drinking these sooner than later. Perfectly balanced and flavor-giving all the way around. Previous notes apply otherwise.

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Villers-Allerand Les Loges

Similar to my note in February 2021. Pours a translucent light salmon color, with super food-friendly/complimentary flavors that highlight light mousse-injected yellow and orange citrus juice, cherry…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Chaillots Gillis

Though I do get how a more purist palate might find the wood treatment here to make for a more lush and sumptuous mouthfeel, I do find this to be a superbly executed BdB with enough requisite acidity…

Laherte Frères Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Les Longues Voyes

Strike three with this Champagne. The Vinges d'Autrefois is so much more compelling than this snoozer. The Les Longues Voyes is a hollow swallow as far as I'm concerned. Can't say I didn't try here.…

Laherte Frères Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Les Longues Voyes

I still struggle with this Champagne. There is an abrasive alkaline finish that accentuates an angularity to its flavor delivery. I'm surprised at the 4g/L dosage here, as it comes across not only…

Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier d'Or

Much less doughy than my previous experience with this wine. Holding for another couple years may prove to be a worthy endeavor. More freshness and a nice hit of acidity balance-out the otherwise…

Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut (2015) Le Mont Benoit

Much less abrasive than the previous bottle. Richer, fuller, and fresher. A little more tension would be desired, but otherwise a very satisfying bottle of Champagne. Entering into a nice window now.…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Mont Martin

A steelier showing this time around. It either didn't like the stemware it was crowded in, which disabled it from spreading its wings and offering up the depth I've come accustomed to enjoying from…

Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier Brut

Unripe pear dominant, with additional yeasty/bready notes battling with a steely-meets-chalky frame. Somewhat simple and abrasive on the appendages. Missing some nuance. This is fine as an aperitif…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Platine

A more improved bottle from my last note. More complexity here, with the speed and lift most notable for a base model Champagne, rolling out the red apple flesh, oyster shell, and bruised lemon…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Premier Cru Terre de Vertus

Much improved from last year's bottle, with a fresh and flinty-spice combo that makes for a lively delivery. Pale yellow in color, with yellow citrus and white stone bringing vivacity and excitement…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Franc de Pied Les Coupés

This bottle was even better than the previous one from last year. Perfect delineation of flavor and precise focus. A straight-line bead of effervescence lets the beautifully layered and exacting…