Reviews

Huré Frères Champagne Mémoire Extra Brut

2019 base. Pluot, Mirabelle plum, kirsch, limestone, chamomile, apricot, fig, lemon pith, and wet gravel notes all make for an intriguing profile, but familiar enough that it delivers with a balanced…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Nogers

An excellent showing, this 2019 Nogers outshines the 2018 by a decent margin and is a more chiseled and vibrant version of the otherwise beautiful 2017. Focus and sophisticated drive are hallmarks of…

Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Extra Brut Orizeaux

This bottle seemed more vinous and focused than the bottle from the same batch last month. Similar apple, Mirabelle plum, and ginger notes, with a prickly pear and pulverized granite tail that whips…

Jacques Selosse Initial

At Enclos** Restaurant, Sonoma.

Chavost Ratafia de Champagne

Hot, angular, and abrasive, with the alcohol piercing through the grilled lemon and apple flavors. Finishes with a constant wave of booze that tramples on any hope of finesse. A rustic and disjointed…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Nogers

Continues to impress. The mineral and spice components provide gorgeous cut and intensity on the first pop. Green and yellow pear, apple, grilled lemon, and hazelnut notes are lifted and honed by way…

Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru VP

2016 base. Disgorged July 2024. 1g/L dosage.

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Roc Solare

Another shot at the later disgorged 2021 base Roc Solare. As before, more honeyed, red apple fleshy, and a bit less nervy than the earlier disgorgement. I like both, but gravitate to the earlier…

Domaine Ghislaine Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras

A soft soul, with a contoured frame and smooth delivery of ripe red berry and subtle spice flavors. Flows with medium effort; not especially intense at this juncture, finishing with a caress of plush…

Julien Prélat Champagne Blanc de Gris Extra Brut Les Côtes

From 3L.

Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling Auslese **

This is in a perfect place tonight, with just the right balance of honeyed sweetness and yellow/white stone fruit, honeydew rind, lemon juice and zest, grapefruit, petrol (subtle), limestone, lime…

Weingut Keller Hubacker Riesling Großes Gewächs

From 3L.

Weingut Keller Abts E® Riesling Großes Gewächs

From Magnum.

Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Côte de Val Vilaine

A solid performance, though this bottle was spun up a bit and slightly wiry on first pass. With air, a broader spectrum of limestone, olive oil, yellow and green pear skin, crunchy pear flesh,…

Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 166eme

From Magnum.

Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé

From Magnum.

Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Hommage à Marguerite

Slight reduction at first, with a stony, white rock and high riding white/yellow fruit core that presents as fairly strict throughout. Thinner mid-palate, with the mineral elements dominating over…

Platt Vineyard Chardonnay Estate Reserve

Lemon, lemon, and lemon. Crème fraiche and vanilla encompass the succulent fruit on the front end, making for a creamy texture and rounder attack on entry. Mid-palate is medium, with lemon curd and…

Aubert Chardonnay Lauren Estate Vineyard

From Magnum.

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre

Strong pineapple rind and barrel influence here. Seems a bit disjointed at first, finishing slightly bitter. With air, its brassy profile wanes, with tropical fruit, lemon curd, and cantaloupe rind…

Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet

A solid Leflaive, but one that is certainly a young pup in need of a lot of air. Lemon leads the charge, with quince, melon rind, honey, crème fraiche, and wet travertine. Clean and fresh, with…

Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

This bottle was muted and linear. It took a lot of coaxing to catch slivers of lychee, lime, white melon rind, and lemon pith notes. Needs a ton of air, and even then there were no fireworks. No…

Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese

A beautiful showing. Just the right kiss of sweetness, this has resolved nicely. Honey, limestone, yuzu, petrol (very subtle), and herbs. Drink now.

Leclerc Briant Champagne Grand Cru Grand Blanc Brut Zéro Blanc de Blancs

As my previous note from February references, this starts out a little sour and torqued up. Linear and primary, but then transforms in fairly short order into a more exquisite creature. It has a…

Faethm / Fingers Crossed Unanswered Prayers Rosé

This was a very confusing wine for me. Comes off like an ultra-modern and really, really ripe Pinot Noir. from like.Texas. Muddled strawberry, menthol, spice, and a powerful medicinal cough syrup…