Reviews

Stonestreet Chardonnay Upper Barn

The 2014 Stonestreet Upper Barn is less succulent and engaging than the 2006 Peter Michael Mon Plaisir (Upper Barn) and 2022 Sphaerics (if and only if - Upper Barn) served beside it. There is a nice…

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Valmur

As Valmur can be, this was a slightly blocky and one-note showing at present. The Vaudesir served next to it was by far the more complex of the two. Creme fraiche meets lemon drop is about all you…

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir

It's not the 2019, but it's set up to get close, the 2022 has more personality than the 2022 Grenouille and Valmur at this stage. With a nice acidic zip and a slightly creamy finish that creates a…

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Grenouilles

Pouring a vibrant translucent neon green-yellow color, this needed a healthy decant to open up. Still, it was a bit shy and not exceptionally expressive, with perceived acidity less prominent than in…

Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast

I finally figured it out. Any time I can't decide between a Hefeweizen or a Champagne, I reach for Ultramarine. The brats and kraut sparkling wine. The chotomy to my dichotomy.

Sphaerics Chardonnay if and only if

(Fair warning, I had a healthy dose of green tea before scribbling this; so, buckle up friends.)

Morgen Long Chardonnay X Omni Vineyard

This is a citrus pith, karate chop, high roundhouse Gymkata lemon and lime kick of Hot Topic flash and flair all in one hyper push of acid and energy on the front end, with a flinty-flowery Speed…

Morgen Long Chardonnay X Omni Vineyard

A reductive nose burns off with some vigorous swirling, offering the palate a super fresh expression of the varietal. Tense and nervy quince and citrus notes fire off from cheek-to-cheek, with lime,…

Vice Versa Chardonnay Platt Vineyard

Clementine, lime, white travertine, and a long lemony finish mark the latest vintage of the 2021 Platt Chardonnay. It is both vibrant and full, with energy and acidity that fully encompass the back…

Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère

Sherried and poxed. Vibrancy is flat and the finish immediately falls off a cliff. Carries the tension and acidity of low fat milk. Down the drain.

Claude Cazals Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Clos Cazals

Even better than last year. With a bit of air, this becomes a phenomenal BdB, marrying controlled depth and ripeness with judicious acidity and chalky cut. Finishes both savory and uplifting. Drink…

Walter Scott Chardonnay X-Novo Vineyard

There's a lot of back and forth about the perceived reduction here, so I'll save the great debate for another time and simply say that this bottle indeed shows as such on the nose, but not in an…

Marguet Champagne Grand Cru Les Bermonts

More approachable than the 2017, but with a tick less verve, this 2018 is pretty much good from go. This isn't to say that it's not without requisite tension and energy; in fact, it's extremely…

Marguet Champagne Grand Cru Le Parc

There's an upfront limestone/white travertine thing going on here that keeps the yellow and white citrus and stone fruit in righteous formation, almost to the point of being a bit linear. Much…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Grand Cru Château d'Avize, Blanc de Blancs, Brut Zéro

Reminding me of a Marguet Le Parc I had recently, this LB is an exquisitely built BdB, with a beautiful yellow and green pear-driven profile, carrying additional white travertine-meets-yellow citrus…

Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs Keefer Ranch Sonoma Coast

Not so sure I'm too stoked on the track record here with some of these sparklers. This one opened up with extremely aggressive bubbles (and yes, it has been resting on its side and treated with kid…

Marguet Champagne Grand Cru Les Bermonts

A super solid showing, and though perhaps a slight step behind in complexity to a recently sampled Le Parc (2018), this 2017 Bermonts is a worthy sibling indeed. Linear and a bit strict on first…

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Valmur

Lemon and lime juice and zest, liquid limestone, sea salt, iodine, and lemon verbena notes make for a vibrant showing. Not as beefy as Valmurs of the past, the 2021 vintage makes for a more honed…

Marguet Champagne Grand Cru Le Parc

A brilliant performance, with a beautifully defined power/spice profile that makes for immediate pleasure; give it some air and you're in for even more of a treat. Yellow pear, yellow apple skin,…

Marguet Champagne Grand Cru Les Crayères

Spicy and powerful on entry, this instantly reminds me of the 2012 and 2013 Churchills I've recently sampled. The edges start out a little angular, but quickly come in to better focus, with punchy…

Patrick Piuze Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

Boy, this was as boring and plain as the day is long. I just hope I don't get too tired even writing about this wine and fall aslee.............

Joseph Colin Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc

Lemon and lime, and even some petrol notes, make for a refreshing profile that comes off overly juvenile but still full of verve and energy. Hold for a few years minimum.

Schramsberg Vineyards Blanc de Blancs

Pizza dough and lemontini. Bready and cloying. Appeals to those looking for something yellow with bubbles. I know a decent amount about the 2020 vintage in general 'round these parts, but I don't…

Beaux Frères Chardonnay Ribbon Ridge

With healthy dollops of roasted/grilled lemon and brassy olive oil flavors, and more advanced than I would've thought, this 2010 also exhibited butterscotch and lamp oil notes that further led to a…

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Valmur

This is holding its cards a bit, especially when compared to the more exuberant and intense 2019. Lemons all the way around with this 2020: Lemon confit, juice, curd, zest, pith... ya, so, pretty…