Reviews

Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne

Yellow citrus, lemon curd, and yellow pear dominate here, with a hit of reduction that finishes with a combination of flint/smoke/matchstick and a kiss of tropical yellow stone fruit. The strong…

Coche-Dury Meursault

Pear, lemon, unripe peach, crème fraiche, lime pith, and hints of vanilla make for a youthful and somewhat unresolved showing, but marked by a purity of fruit that is undeniably top tier, especially…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant Extra Brut

This bottle was a later disgorgement than the previous 2013 Levant I had last year (September versus May, 2022), and consequently the best showing of this vintage so far. An extra layer of depth and…

Huré Frères Chardonnay Champagne 4 éléments

A bit broader and less revved up than the spunkier 2015 4 Elements Chardonnay, this 2018 version carries a full but delineated profile with ripe lemon, yuzu, and clementine flavors beautifully…

Louis Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Domaine des Héritiers Louis Jadot

Drinks almost like an aged white Hermitage. Interesting dark yellow and orangey flavors, but overall a bit brassy and lacking freshness. I could drink this without complaint with a fistful of foie…

Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Gouttes d'Or

This was a favorite, with a tension-filled delivery that is laced with flinty reduction and yellow/orange core fruit. This was competing neck and neck with the 2022 Boillot Corton Charlie. The CC had…

Kongsgaard Chardonnay The Judge

A lot of powdered sugar and heavy confectionery elements jumping out at first pass here, with succulent lemon curd and marshmallow saturating the palate. The chewy yellow citrus flavors are a bit…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize

This was my third time trying the 2016 Chemins d'Avize. My first bottle was at the Chateau - great! My second was at home - great! This third bottle was at a restaurant (I brought the bottle). This…

Huré Frères Champagne L'Inattendue Blanc de Blancs

A very charming wine, with notable chalky pep and freshness counterbalanced with hints of toasty elements that ultimately make for an easy sipper. Lemon and yellow pear notes are elevated by white…

Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

I need to leave these alone for a decent tick of time. Heavy in the bread and yeast department, with a confection powdered sugar thing masking the white and yellow fruit. It is texturally luxurious,…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Cramant

This bottle was much better than my confusing experience with this wine back in November. Today, the experience was akin to the bottle I had a year ago, where it was alive and kicking on the first…

Domaine des Malandes Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir

2018 and 2020 Malandes Vaudesir served side by side.

Domaine des Malandes Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir

2018 and 2020 Malandes Vaudesir served side by side.

Jacques Selosse Initial

Served side by side with another Initial disgorged in 2024 (2018 base), this 2016 disgorgement (2010 base) shows more mature orange, golden raisin, and honey notes, with a slight downshift in energy…

Jacques Selosse Initial

This bottle once again affirms my affection for more recently disgorged versions of this wine. Served side by side with another Initial disgorged in 2016 (2010 base), this 2024 disgorgement (2018…

Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Hors Serie

As before, pear, cardamom, ginger, lemon, limestone, and olive oil notes all make for a compelling experience. The perfect amount of acid and cut to counterbalance the enveloping volume saturating…

Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Blanc de Blancs Heurtebise

This particular bottle was really torqued up and super linear on the first pass. More chalky and white fruited, with a chiseled profile that was night and day compared to the much more giving 2016…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Grand Cru Grand Blanc Brut Zéro Blanc de Blancs

Best showing of this so far. A beautiful kiss of honey runs through the delivery, complimented by pear, lemon, and olive oil flavors. Finishes with a perfect beads of white travertine and limestone,…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Nogers

In a beautiful spot right now, with both expressive and focused fruit expansion, this vintage of Nogers unfolds with lovely cadence and stride. The honey and mildly oxidative notes are supported by…

Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Blanc de Blancs Heurtebise

A fantastic showing, and the best yet from this bottling, the Heurtebise displays wonderful pear, ripe lemon, and melon fruit flavors that are perfectly carried on a limestone and chalk carriage.…

Domaine des Malandes Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir

Mostly lemon, with lime and clementine as well. Medium all the way around, with just enough zing to keep it interesting. No fireworks, but it's an especially solid QPR. I prefer 2019 and 2021.

De Sousa et Fils Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée des Caudalies Millésimé

At first pass, this presents as a little boxy and less refined in cadence and texture. With time and air, the flavors become more amalgamated, with tasty but predictable flavors of lemon, white…

Doyard Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Clos de l'Abbaye

Much improved from last year's stricter and more linear performance, this bottle was undulating all sorts of honeydew melon, mint, lemon, travertine, and white/yellow pear flavors. Still a tad…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Premier Cru Le Clos des Trois Clochers Brut Zero

As before, flavors of lemon and lime pith, yuzu kosho, and lemon verbena dominate, with some honey, grilled lemon, blanched almond, chalk, and limestone notes that add depth and interest. Finishes…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Chetillon de Haut

A much more wiry profile than the Coullemets, the Chetillon highlights chiseled precision and striking minerality at the moment. This is a wine of promise, but it's in less of a mood to show much…