Reviews

Château Montrose

Interestingly, I found this 1989 Montrose to be much more awake and fresher than a funky 1990 Montrose I had a while back. Mulch, forest floor, and tobacco leaf are beautifully counterbalanced by…

Leeuwin Estate Chardonnay Art Series

I was more in the camp that felt this had a confectionary note that I couldn't get past. The oak and tropical notes weighed down the delivery for me, making it gummy and sluggish. It's a succulent…

Marcassin Chardonnay Alexander Mountain Upper Barn Alexander Valley

Though I have admittedly been hesitant with Marcassin with what I consider to be a stylistic old school black Chardonnay-type profile of that house that I have sometimes struggled to be drawn to, I…

Ceritas Chardonnay Charles Heintz Vineyard

I used to really enjoy Ceritas Heintz, but was never taken enough by it to keep following it over time. That said, I will fully admit to feeling quite privileged to be able to catch up with this…

Hubert Lamy Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Vieilles Vignes

There is a lot of promise here, but it is locked up pretty tight at the moment. Primary and mineral-driven, with a classically youthful Puligny profile, the Tremblots is a difficult wine to assess at…

Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis Grand Cru Les Preuses

Linear and tense, with a white fruit profile that dominates on initial entry. A bit strict at first, this young Preuses is insistent at first pass but relaxes enough that some alluring expansions of…

Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut

Freshie McSpunkmeister. I've written quite a bit on this vintage of Cristal and these 2013s have not disappointed yet. Still in quite the upward trajectory. I'd say revisit in a decade from now, but…

Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Chemin de Reims

I need to keep my hands off of these. After a few hours, it really gets into gear. With its extra tick of intensity and focus, the 2019 out performs the less-honed 2018.

Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

This hasn't changed much since my last having it a few years ago. There is notable acidity and a noble mineral streak that distinguish it from a number of other more bulbous 2018 Chablis. The tension…

Jacques Lassaigne Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Clos Sainte Sophie

Grilled lemon peel and lemon juice, olive oil, sherry, hazelnut, cardamom, coriander, travertine, and yellow pear skin. Young and primary in the fruit department, with the barrel treatment adding…

Pierre Paillard Champagne Grand Cru Rosé Extra Brut Les Terres Roses

Strawberry water and chalk. Diluted and weak; light intensity. Bitter finish. Lame.

Pertois-Lebrun Champagne Grand Cru Le Fond Du Bateau N°13

While the No.15 I sampled not too long ago was balled up and a bit linear, but still providing nice verve and energy, I find this No.13 to be somewhat thin and diluted by comparison. The flavors are…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Les Potées Le Mesnil-sur-Oger

Even more expressive than when I had it six months ago, the Potees is a lemon verbena basket of strung up energy at first, with chalk, saline, mineral, and herbs hitting the palate with brilliant…

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

Two years since my last bottle. This has developed some nice iodine flavors that elevate the lemon and travertine notes here. Finishes with a nice bead of acidity to keep everything in harmony. The…

Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère

Solid performance. Ripe lemon flavors with beautifully placed saline, travertine, and white melon rind notes that keep it all in focus. No reason to wait on these. I mean, there's one reason not to…

Vincent Couche Champagne "ADN" Montgueux

Both yeasty and steely, with a froth that seemed to mute the fruit trying to push through. Likely an off bottle.

La Rogerie Champagne Grand Cru Le Bourg Sud

This came across like a grocery store Champagne for me, lacking personality and a sense of identity. It had some snippets of decent ripe fruit and spice, but also showed a confection aftertaste that…

Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

The Comtes flavors were certainly present but the delivery seemed to lack oomph and finished rather horizontal. More of a tired and sluggish showing, as the bubbles dissipated in short order and the…

Krug Champagne Vintage Brut

The first sips of this wine were very nice. An expected 2006 Krug profile, with a broader posture and oxidized fruit elements that encompass those orangey and mature lemon flavors. The finish faded…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Premier Cru Le Clos des Trois Clochers Brut Zero

Amongst other Champagne in the blind, this was the clear BdB that exploded with its Chardonnay energy. Bright and citrus-juicy lemon. As mentioned in my previous note, unique flavors of crunchy…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Chetillon de Haut

I was keen to pick this out in the blind, as I am starting to get a better bead on Adrien Dhondt's namesake wines. The Chetillon is the most oxidative (honey, nut, yuzu, spice) of the young bunch,…

Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill

Every time I have this wine, especially the 2013, I am floored with how well it performs. In blinds, it always does especially well, shooting out wonderful vibrancy and intensity, with that…

Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

Intensity-wise, the 1996 Salon shows its age a bit (I mean, it is 30 years old after all). However, it has maintained a stable sense of keen focus and direction, even to the point of being slightly…

Claude Cazals Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Clos Cazals

A step down from my previous bottle two years ago, this displayed a chiseled white chalk and lemon juice front end, with nicely placed bristling acidity and cut, but then thinned out notably on the…

Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos

Hallmark Selosse profile of torched orange peel, dried apricot, grilled lemon, hazelnut, and brioche crust; the core flavors intermingle with further waves of honeyed pear, quince, yuzu, olive oil,…