Reviews

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Chetillon de Haut

A much more wiry profile than the Coullemets, the Chetillon highlights chiseled precision and striking minerality at the moment. This is a wine of promise, but it's in less of a mood to show much…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize

Similar showing to the bottle I had at the domaine a year ago, the Chemins d'Avize is a go-getter from the start. This bottle shows white fruit and crisp minerality counterbalancing the lemon,…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant Extra Brut

At Madcap* restaurant.

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Les Coullemets Le Mesnil-sur-Oger

Shows youthfully linear and bracketed at first pass, but then the wonderful core fruit flavors of yellow pear, Squirt, lemon, lime pith, honeydew, and yellow apple flesh shine through. Persistent…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Cramant

This took three-to-four days being open to resolve some its weirdness, with a super bitter mineral element trampling the fruit almost completely on the first day. Day two was a little better, but…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize

Striking laser beams of wet travertine/limestone and acidity jet right through the grilled lemon, brioche crust, yellow pear and apple skin, and olive oil flavors. Powerful and exacting. Finishes…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant Extra Brut

Pours a golden color, with a nose that is both saline and ripe yellow fruit. On the palate, this is a push-pull of salty sea spray, granite and mineral elements, olive oil on brioche crust, and…

Jacques Selosse Initial

At Enclos** Restaurant, Sonoma.

Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru VP

2016 base. Disgorged July 2024. 1g/L dosage.

Leclerc Briant Champagne Grand Cru Grand Blanc Brut Zéro Blanc de Blancs

As my previous note from February references, this starts out a little sour and torqued up. Linear and primary, but then transforms in fairly short order into a more exquisite creature. It has a…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Les Potées Le Mesnil-sur-Oger

Bangin' again! Excellent volume-to-freshness ratio and balance. A lot of lemon and crème fraiche jumping off here, with similar but more serious elements of lemon juice/zest/pith, white…

Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru VP

2016 base. Disgorged July 2024. 1g/L dosage. 84 months sur lie.

Pertois-Lebrun Champagne Grand Cru Le Fond Du Bateau N°13

This bottle was a bit more filled out than the one a few months ago. There are some wood and oxidation influences that add depth, with a finish that maintains freshness and precision. Better focus on…

Jacques Selosse Substance

At Ristorante NIN, Brenzone su Garda, Lake Garda, Italy.

Marguet Champagne Grand Cru Les Beurys

Mousy and feral. Stooopid. Again. I need to stop calling these flawed and just call them terrible. 70? if scoring.

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Vieille Vigne Le Bateau

A bit rounder and broader than some of Dhondt's more precise offerings, the Bateau shows wonderful depth and budding profundity on the front end, with a mid-palate girth that presents as full-first…

Pierre Paillard Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Les Mottelettes

A solid BdB with accessible and giving lemon and melon flavors that both enliven and coat the palate. There are fullness and breadth here, with a travertine-laced delivery providing a sporty lift for…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Cramant

Aggressive bubbles turn flat in the glass. Pours a beautiful deep golden yellow color. Muted nose. Front end is all stewed lemons. Back end is bitter alkaline and sour, burnished finish. Gets even…

Jacques Selosse Initial

The best combination of unctuous/umami and vibrancy. Oxidative orangey notes combine with yellow lemon, pear, yuzu, apricot, and limestone flavors. Beautiful execution, with a full and lifted finish.

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Cramant

I prefer this on the colder side, where the lemon and melon flavors are better focused and honed. When it warms in the glass, they tend to flatten out a bit. Crunchy pear, white melon rind, lemon…

Champagne Suenen Champagne Grand Cru C + C Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

As before, this was "fine." Lacking a bit in the depth and profundity departments, but it carries a nice bead and drops solidly mid-palate with some lemony succulence, travertine, and honeydew…

Champagne Suenen Champagne Grand Cru "La Cocluette" Extra Brut

Ripe grilled lemon, roasted nut, lemon curd, red apple flesh, yuzu, saline, yellow pear, limestone, and olive oil. There is a well placed intensity on the front end (almost more Pinot-esque in its…

Jacques Selosse Initial

A smoking jacket and leather chair showing this go around; from the same lot/disgorgement as the previous bottle I had back in February, this Initial shows similarly, but for stronger orange and oak…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Grand Cru Château d'Avize, Blanc de Blancs, Brut Zéro

This bottle shows better than the last time I had the 2013 Avize six months ago. It is still a little rough around the edges at first (angular with the acidity at the forefront), but it balances out…

Pierre Paillard Champagne Grand Cru Rosé Extra Brut Les Terres Roses

Strawberry water and chalk. Diluted and weak; light intensity. Bitter finish. Lame.