Reviews

Pertois-Lebrun Champagne Grand Cru Le Fond Du Bateau N°13

While the No.15 I sampled not too long ago was balled up and a bit linear, but still providing nice verve and energy, I find this No.13 to be somewhat thin and diluted by comparison. The flavors are…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Les Potées Le Mesnil-sur-Oger

Even more expressive than when I had it six months ago, the Potees is a lemon verbena basket of strung up energy at first, with chalk, saline, mineral, and herbs hitting the palate with brilliant…

La Rogerie Champagne Grand Cru Le Bourg Sud

This came across like a grocery store Champagne for me, lacking personality and a sense of identity. It had some snippets of decent ripe fruit and spice, but also showed a confection aftertaste that…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Chetillon de Haut

I was keen to pick this out in the blind, as I am starting to get a better bead on Adrien Dhondt's namesake wines. The Chetillon is the most oxidative (honey, nut, yuzu, spice) of the young bunch,…

Claude Cazals Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Clos Cazals

A step down from my previous bottle two years ago, this displayed a chiseled white chalk and lemon juice front end, with nicely placed bristling acidity and cut, but then thinned out notably on the…

Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos

Hallmark Selosse profile of torched orange peel, dried apricot, grilled lemon, hazelnut, and brioche crust; the core flavors intermingle with further waves of honeyed pear, quince, yuzu, olive oil,…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Grand Cru Grand Blanc Brut Zéro Blanc de Blancs

Broad and deep, as mentioned in my previous notes, this is a gourmand experience, with a rich and ripe yellow pear, honeyed lemon, and lemon confit core that fully envelopes the palate.

Girard-Bonnet Champagne Grand Cru Mon Village

This is an easy sipper that balances deeper lemon and stone fruit notes with mineral and subtle floral elements, which makes for a solid breadth of flavor throughout the attack. Medium density, with…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Chetillon de Haut

The most oxidized (in the best and most judicious of ways), spiciest, and densest of all the Champagne from Adrien Dhondt's namesake label, the 2019 Chetillon du Haut is a beautifully crafted wine…

Champagne Suenen Champagne Grand Cru C + C Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

This was originally advertised as a 2019 base, but ended up being a 2014 base when it arrived. Weak.

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Les Coullemets Le Mesnil-sur-Oger

Just as impressive as last year, if even a bit more resolved and affable. Yellow and green pear, along with honeydew, limestone, lemon, and yellow apple notes dominate. Finishes full and enveloping.…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Cramant

This bottle was a lemon hound tonight. Riper and more succulent than expected. Lemon curd and. lemon. Lacked some of the electricity of previous bottles. Stemware was pretty weak, so that may have…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Grand Cru Château d'Avize, Blanc de Blancs, Brut Zéro

At Tiya, SF

Pertois-Lebrun Champagne Grand Cru Les Chétillons N°15

Oxidative and a bit superficial, lacking a sense of depth and layering. Golden raisin, grilled lemon, limestone, and poached pear. Finishes a bit brassy. A far cry from the more compelling Bateau and…

Marguet Champagne Grand Cru Les Crayères

This bottle was strict and bitter upon opening. With air, it opened up and offered some funky pear and gravel notes. Finished a little wooly.

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Cramant

Blind.

Champagne Suenen Champagne Grand Cru "Les Robarts" Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Millésime

Well, this bottle was all sorts of awesome. Yellow pear, olive oil, limestone, yuzu, grilled lemon and orange, almond skin, and ripe yellow apple. In a solid drinking window with just a little bit of…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Blaise Oger

Another success from Adrien Dhondt's namesake label, the Blaise Oger sports a beautiful core of yellow, green, and white fruit and mineral elements that make for an excitingly fresh and full profile.…

Bérêche et Fils Champagne Grand Cru Mailly

Somewhat surprisingly, this is my least favorite vintage of Mailly. I thought the 2013 and 2016 were especially good, with the 2017 trailing a distant third. The 2017 actually tops this 2018, at…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize

As before, golden apple, poached pear, a drip of olive oil, limestone, and some spice roll on to the palate; this becomes richer with air and temperature, but holds a delicate mousse that keeps…

Philippe Lancelot Champagne Grand Cru Le Fond Du Bateau Chouilly

Less of a stellar showing from this bottle. It needed an hour or so before it stopped being a one-note white fruit catawampus sourpuss. Even with air and time, it was fairly disjointed and never…

Marguet Champagne Grand Cru Les Beurys

Another funky bottle with a bitter finish. Annoying.

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Cramant

Wonderfully balanced, with Meyer lemon, lemon curd, honeydew, yellow pear, and wet white travertine notes hitting the palate with an instantly appealing sense of equilibrium. With air, its deepens,…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Grand Cru Grand Blanc Brut Zéro Blanc de Blancs

Starts out a little sour and Hefeweizen-esque at first pass. With air, it balances out and shows deeper lemon, honeyed pear, lemon curd, orange zest, quince, yeast, and hints of funky apricot. Like…

Pertois-Lebrun Champagne Grand Cru L'extravertie

Fine and all, but not especially memorable. A lot of white fruit and fizz. Some higher toned yellow citrus and while melon come to the party, but it stays pretty foursquare throughout consumption.…