Reviews

Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

Still worth holding for a number of years (6-7 years minimum; ideally, 10), the 2012 is a lot of fizz and confection at first, but it comes into a decent glide after being open most of the day. Final…

Dom Pérignon Champagne

An improved performance from last year, and one that dials back the dough element just enough to allow some needed acidity and intensity. Yeast is at the forefront here, but there is also an…

Dom Pérignon Champagne P2

A bit more resolved than last year, this bottle is a lovely combination of chiseled precision and a deliberate unfolding of fruit. The limestone and prickly pear offer frame and focus, while the…

Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos

Revisiting another bottle from the same lot after having it last year (though I don't know what disgorgement it actually is due to yet another failure to launch with the NFC chip not working on the…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Grand Cru Grand Blanc Brut Zéro Blanc de Blancs

Continues to impress, with succulent lemon, olive oil, and yuzu flavors that are beautifully counterbalanced by racier limestone, barrel spice, and chalk notes. Drinking well now.

Pol Roger Champagne Vintage Brut

From Magnum. Ripe, mature, and a bit sweet, this has enough energy and freshness to push out the grilled lemon, poached pear, Rainier cherry, caramel, red apple, and copper notes, but I imagine the…

Gaspard Brochet Champagne 333.e

Quite the unique animal, initially drinking more like a Rose than a Champagne blend, the 333e has a wild, slightly succulent side that is a little curveball at first, but settles into a delivery of…

Henri Giraud Champagne Grand Cru Argonne Brut

With an instant attention-grabbing note of lemon/lime citrus zest, the Argonne delivers an intense push of yellow/green citrus, chalk, limestone, yellow/red apple, prickly pear, and ginger notes with…

Jacques Selosse Initial

Deep and penetrating, with orange peel and candied lemon rind notes immediately signaling a profile that can only be Selosse. Like a baby Substance, this disgorgement of Initial offers deep yuzu and…

Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne VV/R22

My previous notes on this wine apply, with a richer and slightly sweeter profile than RDJ VV's of the past. With 2022 being a seemingly stellar vintage for Champagne, I am surprised how gourmand this…

Philipponnat Champagne Les Cintres

This is a seductive sample, with a creeping cadence that slowly unfolds flavors of poached pear, red apple flesh, cherry water, olive oil, grilled apricot and lemon, and olive oil.

Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 171eme

Strong yeast and rye notes dominate the entry on this particular bottle. With time and air, limestone, unripe pineapple rind, crunchy pear, and ginger emerge. The deeper notes of honey, grilled…

Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 169eme

One of my favorite Krug cuvees, this go-around with the 169 shows a distinctly yeasty profile at first, but quickly rounds out with brioche, nut, and honey notes after exposure to air. Still, the…

Krug Champagne Vintage Brut

There is a precision here that immediately draws you in, with a leesy, yeast-driven entry that is both electric and weighty, the 2013 vintage Krug is captivating. The tension and energy are…

Vincent Cuillier Champagne Clos Forestier Blanc de Pinot Noir Brut Nature

Starting out bristly and tense, the Clos Forestier doesn't take too long to offer alluring Pinot characteristics in the form of both intensity and depth. Yellow and red pear skin, limestone, grilled…

Vincent Cuillier Champagne Fusion Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature

Bristly and edgy, there are some barbs on the delivery here that necessitate patience to take the edge off. Cherry water and bark, thistle, pulverized granite, white melon rind, crunchy red pear skin…

J. Lassalle Champagne Premier Cru Special Club

Brisk and bristling with ginger, red apple skin, limestone, crunchy stone fruit, red cherry water, and lemon pith. It's a bit edgy and biting, but I appreciate the energy and tension here. Lacks some…

Billecart-Salmon Champagne Le Réserve

A lot of suds and white fruit. Lacks personality and volume. Good for oysters and grocery store taquitos.

David Leclapart Champagne Premier Cru Cuvée L'Aphrodisiaque

Ginger, spice, pear, grilled lemon, honey, coriander, and yellow and red apple flavors delivering a distinctly Pinot Noir-driven profile. Notable intensity, but cradled by a finesse that seems to be…

Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

These are still a little too vanillin and confection-driven for my tastes at the moment. Fresh and lively indeed, but a juvenile saccharine layer makes the fruit feel a tad sluggish on entry,…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Cramant

Another strange bottle of this. I seem to be shooting 50/50 on these Dhondt Cramants. It is the only one that hasn't delivered with the consistency of his other wines. White melon, chalk, strong…

Vincent Cuillier Champagne Chemin des Rois - Brut Nature

Day 1: As soon as this hits the palate, it is instantly tight and linear, with a white mineral profile that comes off as all suds and chalk. Skeletal and angular. The fruit expression is extremely…