Reviews

Doyard Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Clos de l'Abbaye

Much improved from last year's stricter and more linear performance, this bottle was undulating all sorts of honeydew melon, mint, lemon, travertine, and white/yellow pear flavors. Still a tad…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Premier Cru Le Clos des Trois Clochers Brut Zero

As before, flavors of lemon and lime pith, yuzu kosho, and lemon verbena dominate, with some honey, grilled lemon, blanched almond, chalk, and limestone notes that add depth and interest. Finishes…

Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Les Barres

Firm and precise on entry, this bottle is another strong showing. As before, ginger, Mirabelle plum, brown, red, and yellow pear, honey, wood, and granite lead the charge, followed by a salty bite…

Philipponnat Champagne Les Cintres

In a word: beautiful. From the tenderloin (as in, the best and tenderest part of a loin, not the worst part of S.F.) of Clos des Goisses, the Cintres is seemingly the pinnacle of the Philipponnant…

Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 169eme

The 2013 base does everything right here to maintain wonderful acidity and precision for the weightier brioche crust, nut, and honey notes that make Krug so yummy. The splits (.375s) are easy go-tos…

Dom Pérignon Champagne

Awesome again. Best bottle of young Dom out there, 2013 is a winner. Prickly green pear, yeast, lemon and lime juice and pith, flint, limestone, travertine, white and green melon, Drink or hold.

Michel Fallon Champagne Brigitte Fallon Avysia Avize

This bottle was exceptional, with all the lemony BdB Chardonnay goodness you'd want, with noteworthy length on the back end that keeps a continuous flavor train circling the palate though…

Marguet Sapience

A much improved showing from the last time, this bottle of Sapience shows some Krug-type biscotti, honey, poached pear, and grilled lemon flavors, and also kicks off limestone, bitter apple, and…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Chetillon de Haut

A much more wiry profile than the Coullemets, the Chetillon highlights chiseled precision and striking minerality at the moment. This is a wine of promise, but it's in less of a mood to show much…

Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Cote de Bechalin

The spine and tension here are prominent, especially for a 2012. There is Pinot power at the forefront, with less richness overall, washed over by an acidic pulse that shoots across the palate.…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize

Similar showing to the bottle I had at the domaine a year ago, the Chemins d'Avize is a go-getter from the start. This bottle shows white fruit and crisp minerality counterbalancing the lemon,…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant Extra Brut

At Madcap* restaurant.

Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Rosé d'assemblage Extra Brut

Prevalent black cherry and muddled strawberry fruit flavors dominate the attack, kept in proper line with higher riding chalk and white melon rind elements preventing this from becoming too heavy.…

Savart Champagne Premier Cru Ecueil, Trepail Blanc de Blancs

Notable precision and focus, with yellow and white fruit elements wrapped in a thin layer of chalky minerality, the Trepail is a decent offering with captivating verve and snap. Not the most complex…

Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Les Barres

A strong showing, and one that outshines the 2020 Orizeaux on complexity and weight, Les Barres is a beautiful balance of energy and volume. Ginger, Mirabelle plum, brown, red, and yellow pear,…

Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Rosé de Saignée

Black. Cherry. Soda. Pop.

Philipponnat Champagne Extra Brut Clos des Goisses

As with the bottle back in July, this is a riper showing than more energized samples a couple years ago. Red apple flesh, chewy grilled lemon, yellow apple skin and flesh, walnut, limestone, ginger,…

Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Le Mont Benoit

A beautiful showing, with balanced weight and volume pushing out flavors of yellow apple, grilled lemon, apricot, roasted walnuts, granite, golden raisin, cherry water, ginger, white pepper, and…

Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Les Beaux Regards

In a great spot right now, straddling freshness with some mature and oxidized notes. Some nice ginger spice in the foreground, pushing grilled lemon, quince, cardamom, and yellow pear flesh flavors…

David Leclapart Champagne Premier Cru Cuvée L'Aphrodisiaque

Honey, ginger, brioche crust, caramel, torched orange rind, poached pear, olive oil, chamomile, and grilled lemon notes make for a seriously no-joking kind of experience. The delivery is completely…

Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Les Beaux Regards

There is admirable energy and zing here, complimented by richer pear and lemon flavors. The delivery is slightly angular on the finish at first pop, softening with time in the glass. Still working on…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Les Coullemets Le Mesnil-sur-Oger

Shows youthfully linear and bracketed at first pass, but then the wonderful core fruit flavors of yellow pear, Squirt, lemon, lime pith, honeydew, and yellow apple flesh shine through. Persistent…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Cramant

This took three-to-four days being open to resolve some its weirdness, with a super bitter mineral element trampling the fruit almost completely on the first day. Day two was a little better, but…

Larmandier-Bernier Champagne Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize

Striking laser beams of wet travertine/limestone and acidity jet right through the grilled lemon, brioche crust, yellow pear and apple skin, and olive oil flavors. Powerful and exacting. Finishes…

Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Les Beaux Regards

Strong red apple, grilled lemon, and olive oil flavors dominate, with limestone, cardamom, ginger, and yellow pear skin notes adding complexity and interest. Medium intensity and girth here, but a…