Reviews

Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos

Hallmark Selosse profile of torched orange peel, dried apricot, grilled lemon, hazelnut, and brioche crust; the core flavors intermingle with further waves of honeyed pear, quince, yuzu, olive oil,…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Roc Solare

This Champagne still Rocs (see what I did there.? Lame, right?!). It presents as young and vibrant, and even a bit linear, but then some of its oxidative notes allow yuzu and umami characteristics to…

Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Cote de Bechalin

Red apple, golden raisin, olive oil, grilled lemon, ginger, dried apricot, and limestone notes present as caressing and smooth on the palate. Medium intensity and even a bit soft on the finish. This…

Georges Laval Champagne Premier Cru Brut Nature Les Chênes

Bright and clean, the Les Chenes shoots an attractive bolt of crisp green and yellow apple and pear, wet limestone, honeydew rind, quince, lime juice, chalk, travertine, and sea spray notes in a…

David Leclapart Champagne Premier Cru L'Apôtre Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

Best performance from these bottles yet (my last bottle). The nose is pure honeycomb. The palate reflects the honeyed note (completely dry; not sweet, but perfectly succulent), with sherry, grilled…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Grand Cru Grand Blanc Brut Zéro Blanc de Blancs

Broad and deep, as mentioned in my previous notes, this is a gourmand experience, with a rich and ripe yellow pear, honeyed lemon, and lemon confit core that fully envelopes the palate.

Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut

Even for a basic, it's way too basic, and unfortunately sluggish as well. It gains points for not being overtly sweet and confectionery I suppose, but it's a bulbous dollop of honeyed lemon and…

Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 171eme

Still just as spritely as the last bottle I had a couple years ago in Bordeaux, the 171 has an admirable electricity that lifts its flavors now and also signals a wine that can age. Those hallmark…

Girard-Bonnet Champagne Grand Cru Mon Village

This is an easy sipper that balances deeper lemon and stone fruit notes with mineral and subtle floral elements, which makes for a solid breadth of flavor throughout the attack. Medium density, with…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Chetillon de Haut

The most oxidized (in the best and most judicious of ways), spiciest, and densest of all the Champagne from Adrien Dhondt's namesake label, the 2019 Chetillon du Haut is a beautifully crafted wine…

Elise Dechannes Chardonnay Champagne Brut Nature

Steely, clean, bitingly fresh, and hyper-chiseled, this is a Chardonnay that spits high-register lemon and lime juice and pith, chalk, hard unripe pear, and crunchy white melon rind notes straight to…

Elise Dechannes Pinot Noir Champagne

Fresh and clean, with cherry water and rye notes making for a sterile and linear profile. The equilibrium is sound, but there is little expansion or depth to be had. Too far of a swing to the…

Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Les Beaux Regards

This bottle has more of a wet stone and honeydew melon rind thing going on with it at first pass, until it then turns more into a yellow animal after an hour or so of air. Once settled, it shows some…

Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Millésimé Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules

From Magnum. Disgorged April 2020.

Champagne Suenen Champagne Grand Cru C + C Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

This was originally advertised as a 2019 base, but ended up being a 2014 base when it arrived. Weak.

Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Extra Brut Les Couarres

Like a baby Hors Serie, the Couarres is a nice balance of freshness and vibrancy with subtle oxidative notes that sneak up on the back end. This carries white and yellow fruit, with a youthful push…

J-M Seleque Champagne Le Quintette

For $70, this performed exceptionally well, besting a number of higher-tiered Champs. Solid equilibrium of acidity, flavor intensity, and energy. Lemon, pear, and melon flavors present with medium…

Girard-Bonnet Champagne Premier Cru Recueil Extrait No 1

Zippy and aperitify in profile, but with some nicely placed lemon and yellow pear notes to balance out the White Avenger Speedy McSpeedster mineral and crunchy melon rind elements. Skipping over the…

Savart Champagne Premier Cru Le Mont des Chrétiens

A bitter bumpkin, with exceptional focus and a chiseled drive, but equally piercing and abrupt in delivery, especially on the finish. After trying to massage my way through half a glass, I was over…

Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

Vanillin coconut and pineapple notes kick off a rich and full attack that instantly becomes pillowy and creamy. The dosage (9g/L) is noticeable, frosting over the yellow citrus, white/yellow melon,…

Bellavista Franciacorta Riserva Vittorio Moretti

The peach note is especially strong with this bottle. Wonderfully balanced otherwise, with a voluminous mouthfeel and weighty mid-palate, but it moves along beautifully and doesn't get gummed-up by…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Les Coullemets Le Mesnil-sur-Oger

Just as impressive as last year, if even a bit more resolved and affable. Yellow and green pear, along with honeydew, limestone, lemon, and yellow apple notes dominate. Finishes full and enveloping.…

David Leclapart Champagne Premier Cru Cuvée L'Aphrodisiaque

At first, the 2019 L'Aphrodisiaque presents as especially angular and pushy, with full-throttle power bombarding the palate, finishing brassy and abrasive. The extra pump of alcohol (13.5%) is…

Julien Prélat Champagne Presle

A bit shrill and frothy at first pass. White fruit, chalk, lemon pith, and fresh lemon juice. Hints of grapefruit masked mostly by an otherwise hyper-primary and linear attack. Finishes fairly…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Nogers

Cut and paste my previous notes. "Grilled lemon, hazelnut, and yuzu are hugging it out with more mineral and spice components." A perfect combo of oxidative notes and measured vibrancy. Went…