Reviews

Krug Champagne Vintage Brut

This thing is on absolute fire, acting more like all the other amazing and super electrifying 2013 Champagne I've been sampling recently. At first, this is nothing like any Krug I've had, with a…

Agrapart Champagne Grand Cru Avizoise Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

A very friendly and surprisingly open bottle of bubbles, with superb balance and texture, this is an Agrapart that impresses for its Norwich Terrier "happier-to-know-ya kind of attitude." Nothing out…

Jacques Selosse Champagne Premier Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Mareuil-sur-Ay Sous le Mont

Signature Selosse, with all the oxidative (but not brassy) hallmarks that make this a unique but not completely isolating Champagne. This was more deeply pitched and colored than a 2006 VC Grande…

Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon

A great showing, especially for the first part of consumption. After being open for a bit and/or resting in the glass for a while, it started to fade. That said, the first sampling of this was quite…

Dom Pérignon Champagne

A much more electric performance than its 2012 sibling, this 2013 Dom is perhaps the best young vintage yet. I've sampled this twice now with consistent results (first at French Laundry a few months…

Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Cote de Bechalin

This shows incredibly young and chiseled, but it does so in a pulsating and sparkly fashion, which adds to the allure and complexity of its overall performance. Prickly pear, lemon juice and pith,…

Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill

Spicy and racy on first entry, especially when compared to a fair number of more chillax 2012 Champs I've had recently, this Churchill impresses with citrus zest, spice (white pepper and cardamom?),…

Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs Keefer Ranch Sonoma Coast

Lemon, citrus rind, white stone fruit, Asian pear, and sea spray. Perfectly balanced and less sweet than many Ultramarines I've experienced historically, there is nice cut here on the back end that…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Mont Martin

Pours a salmon hue, resembling a Rosé in the glass. Somewhat aggressive bubbles, with no aromas in the nose at all. At first, this is notably bitter and extremely linear on the palate. (This needs…

Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut Vintage

At La Table de Pavie, St. Emilion. By the glass. Though a bit bready on entry, this food-friendly crowd pleaser is rescued by a nicely placed bead of acidity that saves it from becoming too doughy.…

Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru Brut Millésimé

At La Table de Pavie, St. Emilion. A fantastic showing, and one that the well-honed restaurant staff managed to cadence perfectly over the course of nearly four hours. This paired perfectly with…

Marie-Courtin Champagne Présence

Previous notes and disgorgement info still apply. I experienced this particular bottle as fairly simple, lacking some cut this time around. Pure and crystalline as usual. Satisfying to be sure. Lemon…

Jérôme Prévost Champagne La Closerie Extra Brut Les Beguines

A bit more savory and oxidative than the LC13, and certainly less spicy and vivacious than the LC17 I had not too long ago, this LC14 is a comparative belly-showing Labrador once it gets a bit of O2…

Bollinger Champagne Special Cuvée Brut

At Restaurant Zoologie (Bordeaux); by the glass. Pie crust, white bread, lemon drop, meringue, and vanilla. Especially sweet and dough-boy driven for my tastes. Better served with whipped cream and a…

Jérôme Prévost Champagne La Closerie Extra Brut Les Beguines

A little less wlld and spunky than the LC17, this LC13 is still equally spicy, but with dialed down power and a more refined classicism to its profile. Red apple skin and flesh, as well as ginger…

Pierre Péters Champagne Grand Cru Cuvée Speciale Blanc de Blancs Les Chetillons

So far, the least compelling vintage of this Cuvee. Primary and young of course, with mostly chalky structure and high riding unripe white and yellow citrus and stone fruit flavors. A little green as…

Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut

Creamy and a bit rich on first pass, the 2007 RD holds a rounded profile, slowly unfolding with grilled and bruised yellow citrus and stone fruit, ginger powder, olive oil, poached pear, Rainier…

Pol Roger Champagne Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill

Prickly pear and ginger notes make for a spicy entry, with red apple skin, bosc pear, anise, grilled lemon rind, wet limestone, sweet & sour margarita mix, unripe green and yellow apple flesh, and…

Ultramarine Blanc de Noirs Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast

As much as I have championed Ultramarine as a unique alternative to Champagne (In reality, they really couldn't be further apart in many ways, but that's not necessarily a bad thing), I unfortunately…

Ultramarine Blanc de Blancs Heintz Vineyard Sonoma Coast

My preference in the world of Ultramarine tends to gravitate toward their BdBs, though the Rose can be a fantastic alternative to bubblies across the Atlantic. In fact, this BdB was served next to…

Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut

We tapped two of these throughout the course of the weekend and, although I may be in the minority here, I truly love what 2013 has done for this Champagne. It presents as young and vibrant, and I…

Jacques Selosse Substance

The Solera methodology employed here really makes for a truly unique and special profile, one in which I can't rightly say I've ever experienced with Champagne. The complexity is just flat-out crazy,…

Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru Brut Millésimé

Initially, there are strong oxidative and nutty notes emanating from this Egly, but with air, it actually becomes more compacted and focused, with requisite cut and acidic tension to balance out the…

Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

If a Sade smoooooth operator kind of vibe is what you long for in your Champagne, then bust out this charming bewitcher and let the good times roll. This highwire act gets a ton of points for its…

Jérôme Prévost Champagne La Closerie Extra Brut Les Beguines

Spicy, fun, and quite powerful, this LC17 Shaolin monkey was doing some krazy Kungfu kicking on the palate. There too is a saline element here that enlivens the execution of flavor. Raw ginger,…