Reviews

Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut

I've written quite a bit on this, as have others. So, I'll rely on my previous notes for the heavy lifting (I know, SUPER lazy of me). Suffice [it] to say this is a great bottle of Champagne; it's my…

Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas François

This is a yeast-beast that leads with a raw dough note on the initial hit, but what might appear to start out as an autolytic invariant, finds a fast flow into more preserved lemon, Rainier cherry,…

Doyard Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Clos de l'Abbaye

Of the 2015, I previously wrote, "Such a young pup, and a bit severe at first." This is equally true of this 2016 version, with a linear and somewhat angular delivery on the initial pop of the cork.…

Emmanuel Brochet Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut (2015) Le Mont Benoit

Probably the best it has performed over the last couple of years, with a really nice balance of richness and tension. It's got a small nip on the tail that makes for a slightly edgy finish, but is…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Chaillots Gillis

In a great spot right now. Fresh and succulent. This can age and develop tertiary flavors of course, but why wait?!

Claude Cazals Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Clos Cazals

Exquisitely balanced, with a judicious flavor equilibrium between the lemon and chalk/salt notes that are harmoniously carried on a fine bead of effervescence, the 2012 Clos Cazals is a winner. With…

Savart Champagne Grand Cru Haute Couture Le Mesnil

Harmony, precision, and the beginnings of an enveloping flavor profile that certainly stand to offer immediate pleasure as well as reward for the future. Bright and fresh, but with a serious side…

Pierre Moncuit Champagne Grand Cru Millésime Extra-Brut

A sudsy Lhasa Apso in an alkaline and acetone bath at a Petco doggie spa in Detroit.

Jacques Lassaigne Champagne Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Millésimé

I love this Champagne. Such a solid performer with all of the pieces falling into the right place. Incredibly giving now and also one that signals its trajectory into super fine age-ability. Lemon…

Jerome Blin Champagne Cuvée Apogée Extra Brut

This is a bristly showing at first pass, with notable tension and energy spitting prickly pear, red apple skin and flesh, copper, bitter lemon rind, lemon zest, black cherry water, and ginger flavors…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Grand Cru Jolivettes

A more needly showing than the previous bottle just a few months ago, with any complexity or breadth held at bay by the sharp and edgy stone/chalk and twiggy? elements firing off behind the foxhole…

Marie-Courtin Champagne Présence

There is truly a unique succulence that comes from the bowels of this wine when initially you don't think it is going to be anything more than stark and shrill. The first sip is always a little bit…

Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 166eme

Slightly yeastier, richer, and more oxidative than, for example, the 169 (which has recently renewed my faith in the Krug eme series - or at least given the 2013 base used in the 169), this 166…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Villers-Allerand Les Loges

This became the house Champagne for the night. A solid performer and a serious ground pounder for those who are into just gettin' yer party on. Just don't serve it next to a 2013 Cristal. That can be…

Dom Pérignon Champagne

2013 Cristal, 169 Krug (2013 base), and 2010 Dom Perignon side-by-side.

Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 169eme

2013 Cristal, 169 Krug (2013 base), and 2010 Dom Perignon side-by-side.

Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut

2013 Cristal, 169 Krug (2013 base), and 2010 Dom Perignon side-by-side.

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Franc de Pied Les Coupés

A Champagne that will need a few years to fill out, the 2015 Les Coupes is still in a bit of its primary mode, especially when compared to the 2012. This version offers an affable entry and notably…

Ultramarine Blanc de Noirs (Late Disgorged) Charles Heintz Vineyard

Pours a translucent salmon color, with an orange rind hue that shimmers through the effervescence. On the palate, the bubbles are slightly aggressive at first, giving way to a succulently sweet front…

Doyard Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Clos de l'Abbaye

There is an herbal tinge lifting this Champagne into the next tier of complexity that I find extremely appealing. Freshly washed oregano and tarragon leaf aromas and flavors add nuance and…

Doyard Champagne Premier Cru Extra Brut Clos de l'Abbaye

A decisive and formidable hit of fresh herbs (tarragon, Italian parsley, mint) unloads from the front end push on the initial pop of the cork, with a clay/mineral-driven streak slicing directly…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Les Chaillots Gillis

After digging into my recent arrivals of Maillart Champagne, I decided to try the 2017 Jolivettes, 2017 Mont Martin, and 2014 Chaillots Gillis. Punchline: Anyone who is holding these bottles should…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Grand Cru Jolivettes

After digging into my recent arrivals of Maillart Champagne, I decided to try the 2017 Jolivettes, 2017 Mont Martin, and 2014 Chaillots Gillis. Punchline: Anyone who is holding these bottles should…

Nicolas Maillart Champagne Premier Cru Mont Martin

After digging into my recent arrivals of Maillart Champagne, I decided to try the 2017 Jolivettes, 2017 Mont Martin, and 2014 Chaillots Gillis. Punchline: Anyone who is holding these bottles should…

Pierre Paillard Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Les Mottelettes

Initially the flaw here was more difficult to detect, with an herbal note that seemed to add interest on the first pull of the cork. The nose was completely muted. With air, an alkaline note emerged…