Reviews

Marcassin Chardonnay Alexander Mountain Upper Barn Alexander Valley

Though I have admittedly been hesitant with Marcassin with what I consider to be a stylistic old school black Chardonnay-type profile of that house that I have sometimes struggled to be drawn to, I…

Ceritas Chardonnay Charles Heintz Vineyard

I used to really enjoy Ceritas Heintz, but was never taken enough by it to keep following it over time. That said, I will fully admit to feeling quite privileged to be able to catch up with this…

Hubert Lamy Puligny-Montrachet Les Tremblots Vieilles Vignes

There is a lot of promise here, but it is locked up pretty tight at the moment. Primary and mineral-driven, with a classically youthful Puligny profile, the Tremblots is a difficult wine to assess at…

Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Chemin de Reims

I need to keep my hands off of these. After a few hours, it really gets into gear. With its extra tick of intensity and focus, the 2019 out performs the less-honed 2018.

Domaine Louis Michel Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

This hasn't changed much since my last having it a few years ago. There is notable acidity and a noble mineral streak that distinguish it from a number of other more bulbous 2018 Chablis. The tension…

Jacques Lassaigne Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature Clos Sainte Sophie

Grilled lemon peel and lemon juice, olive oil, sherry, hazelnut, cardamom, coriander, travertine, and yellow pear skin. Young and primary in the fruit department, with the barrel treatment adding…

Pertois-Lebrun Champagne Grand Cru Le Fond Du Bateau N°13

While the No.15 I sampled not too long ago was balled up and a bit linear, but still providing nice verve and energy, I find this No.13 to be somewhat thin and diluted by comparison. The flavors are…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Les Potées Le Mesnil-sur-Oger

Even more expressive than when I had it six months ago, the Potees is a lemon verbena basket of strung up energy at first, with chalk, saline, mineral, and herbs hitting the palate with brilliant…

Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos

Two years since my last bottle. This has developed some nice iodine flavors that elevate the lemon and travertine notes here. Finishes with a nice bead of acidity to keep everything in harmony. The…

Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère

Solid performance. Ripe lemon flavors with beautifully placed saline, travertine, and white melon rind notes that keep it all in focus. No reason to wait on these. I mean, there's one reason not to…

La Rogerie Champagne Grand Cru Le Bourg Sud

This came across like a grocery store Champagne for me, lacking personality and a sense of identity. It had some snippets of decent ripe fruit and spice, but also showed a confection aftertaste that…

Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

The Comtes flavors were certainly present but the delivery seemed to lack oomph and finished rather horizontal. More of a tired and sluggish showing, as the bubbles dissipated in short order and the…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Premier Cru Le Clos des Trois Clochers Brut Zero

Amongst other Champagne in the blind, this was the clear BdB that exploded with its Chardonnay energy. Bright and citrus-juicy lemon. As mentioned in my previous note, unique flavors of crunchy…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Chetillon de Haut

I was keen to pick this out in the blind, as I am starting to get a better bead on Adrien Dhondt's namesake wines. The Chetillon is the most oxidative (honey, nut, yuzu, spice) of the young bunch,…

Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

Intensity-wise, the 1996 Salon shows its age a bit (I mean, it is 30 years old after all). However, it has maintained a stable sense of keen focus and direction, even to the point of being slightly…

Claude Cazals Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Clos Cazals

A step down from my previous bottle two years ago, this displayed a chiseled white chalk and lemon juice front end, with nicely placed bristling acidity and cut, but then thinned out notably on the…

Georges Laval Champagne Premier Cru Brut Nature Les Chênes

Bright and clean, the Les Chenes shoots an attractive bolt of crisp green and yellow apple and pear, wet limestone, honeydew rind, quince, lime juice, chalk, travertine, and sea spray notes in a…

David Leclapart Champagne Premier Cru L'Apôtre Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

Best performance from these bottles yet (my last bottle). The nose is pure honeycomb. The palate reflects the honeyed note (completely dry; not sweet, but perfectly succulent), with sherry, grilled…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Grand Cru Grand Blanc Brut Zéro Blanc de Blancs

Broad and deep, as mentioned in my previous notes, this is a gourmand experience, with a rich and ripe yellow pear, honeyed lemon, and lemon confit core that fully envelopes the palate.

Girard-Bonnet Champagne Grand Cru Mon Village

This is an easy sipper that balances deeper lemon and stone fruit notes with mineral and subtle floral elements, which makes for a solid breadth of flavor throughout the attack. Medium density, with…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Chetillon de Haut

The most oxidized (in the best and most judicious of ways), spiciest, and densest of all the Champagne from Adrien Dhondt's namesake label, the 2019 Chetillon du Haut is a beautifully crafted wine…

Elise Dechannes Chardonnay Champagne Brut Nature

Steely, clean, bitingly fresh, and hyper-chiseled, this is a Chardonnay that spits high-register lemon and lime juice and pith, chalk, hard unripe pear, and crunchy white melon rind notes straight to…

Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Les Beaux Regards

This bottle has more of a wet stone and honeydew melon rind thing going on with it at first pass, until it then turns more into a yellow animal after an hour or so of air. Once settled, it shows some…

Champagne Suenen Champagne Grand Cru C + C Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

This was originally advertised as a 2019 base, but ended up being a 2014 base when it arrived. Weak.

J-M Seleque Champagne Le Quintette

For $70, this performed exceptionally well, besting a number of higher-tiered Champs. Solid equilibrium of acidity, flavor intensity, and energy. Lemon, pear, and melon flavors present with medium…