Reviews

Salon Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

Intensity-wise, the 1996 Salon shows its age a bit (I mean, it is 30 years old after all). However, it has maintained a stable sense of keen focus and direction, even to the point of being slightly…

La Rogerie Champagne Grand Cru Le Bourg Sud

This came across like a grocery store Champagne for me, lacking personality and a sense of identity. It had some snippets of decent ripe fruit and spice, but also showed a confection aftertaste that…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Chetillon de Haut

I was keen to pick this out in the blind, as I am starting to get a better bead on Adrien Dhondt's namesake wines. The Chetillon is the most oxidative (honey, nut, yuzu, spice) of the young bunch,…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Premier Cru Le Clos des Trois Clochers Brut Zero

Amongst other Champagne in the blind, this was the clear BdB that exploded with its Chardonnay energy. Bright and citrus-juicy lemon. As mentioned in my previous note, unique flavors of crunchy…

Vincent Couche Champagne "ADN" Montgueux

Both yeasty and steely, with a froth that seemed to mute the fruit trying to push through. Likely an off bottle.

Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut

The Comtes flavors were certainly present but the delivery seemed to lack oomph and finished rather horizontal. More of a tired and sluggish showing, as the bubbles dissipated in short order and the…

Claude Cazals Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Clos Cazals

A step down from my previous bottle two years ago, this displayed a chiseled white chalk and lemon juice front end, with nicely placed bristling acidity and cut, but then thinned out notably on the…

Dhondt-Grellet Champagne Roc Solare

This Champagne still Rocs (see what I did there.? Lame, right?!). It presents as young and vibrant, and even a bit linear, but then some of its oxidative notes allow yuzu and umami characteristics to…

Jacques Selosse Champagne Grand Cru Lieux-dits Extra Brut Ambonnay Le Bout du Clos

Hallmark Selosse profile of torched orange peel, dried apricot, grilled lemon, hazelnut, and brioche crust; the core flavors intermingle with further waves of honeyed pear, quince, yuzu, olive oil,…

Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Cote de Bechalin

Red apple, golden raisin, olive oil, grilled lemon, ginger, dried apricot, and limestone notes present as caressing and smooth on the palate. Medium intensity and even a bit soft on the finish. This…

Georges Laval Champagne Premier Cru Brut Nature Les Chênes

Bright and clean, the Les Chenes shoots an attractive bolt of crisp green and yellow apple and pear, wet limestone, honeydew rind, quince, lime juice, chalk, travertine, and sea spray notes in a…

David Leclapart Champagne Premier Cru L'Apôtre Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

Best performance from these bottles yet (my last bottle). The nose is pure honeycomb. The palate reflects the honeyed note (completely dry; not sweet, but perfectly succulent), with sherry, grilled…

Veuve Clicquot Champagne Brut

Even for a basic, it's way too basic, and unfortunately sluggish as well. It gains points for not being overtly sweet and confectionery I suppose, but it's a bulbous dollop of honeyed lemon and…

Leclerc Briant Champagne Grand Cru Grand Blanc Brut Zéro Blanc de Blancs

Broad and deep, as mentioned in my previous notes, this is a gourmand experience, with a rich and ripe yellow pear, honeyed lemon, and lemon confit core that fully envelopes the palate.

Krug Champagne Brut Grande Cuvée Edition 171eme

Still just as spritely as the last bottle I had a couple years ago in Bordeaux, the 171 has an admirable electricity that lifts its flavors now and also signals a wine that can age. Those hallmark…

Girard-Bonnet Champagne Grand Cru Mon Village

This is an easy sipper that balances deeper lemon and stone fruit notes with mineral and subtle floral elements, which makes for a solid breadth of flavor throughout the attack. Medium density, with…

Elise Dechannes Chardonnay Champagne Brut Nature

Steely, clean, bitingly fresh, and hyper-chiseled, this is a Chardonnay that spits high-register lemon and lime juice and pith, chalk, hard unripe pear, and crunchy white melon rind notes straight to…

Adrien Dhondt Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Chetillon de Haut

The most oxidized (in the best and most judicious of ways), spiciest, and densest of all the Champagne from Adrien Dhondt's namesake label, the 2019 Chetillon du Haut is a beautifully crafted wine…

Elise Dechannes Pinot Noir Champagne

Fresh and clean, with cherry water and rye notes making for a sterile and linear profile. The equilibrium is sound, but there is little expansion or depth to be had. Too far of a swing to the…

Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Millésimé Blanc de Noirs Les Ursules

From Magnum. Disgorged April 2020.

Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Les Beaux Regards

This bottle has more of a wet stone and honeydew melon rind thing going on with it at first pass, until it then turns more into a yellow animal after an hour or so of air. Once settled, it shows some…

Bérêche et Fils Champagne Campania Remensis Extra Brut Rosé

Followed over the course of four days. This was actually at its most interesting on the fourth day. Deeper orange and grapefruit notes emerge, while still retaining some of its signature crunchy…

Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé

From Magnum.

Krug Champagne Brut Rose Edition 24eme

Blood orange, ripe grapefruit, grilled lemon, yuzu, muddled strawberry, hazelnut, and olive oil flavors make for an enveloping profile that is rich and satiating. This is truly a pink Krug, with the…

Champagne Suenen Champagne Grand Cru C + C Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

This was originally advertised as a 2019 base, but ended up being a 2014 base when it arrived. Weak.